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GARDEN POND CLEANING
With a totally enclosed aquatic environment, the balance of plants, fish and filtration is very important. What you basically have is an enclosed sewerage system. Hence, the reason for ornamental pond cleaning.
When the pond is dirty (a fair amount of fish excrement, leaf and organic debris) the decomposition of organic matter gives off a toxic gas that can severely stress or even kill the fish.
The cleaning of the pond can either be a good or bad situation, depending on the season, condition of the pond and the health of the fish. The fall season is the best time of the year for cleaning. A pond can be cleaned in spring but it is not recommended.
A fall cleaning should be completed before the trees and other deciduous plants drop their leaves and before the water temperature drops below 50 degrees. Fall cleaning eliminates the ammonia and other toxins in the water through draining and refilling the pond. The fish can then continue to feed in a healthy environment enabling them to build up their strength and immunities to disease and bacteria before entering the stressful winter season.
The tools needed for cleaning are as follows:
A holding tank or tub for the plants and fish
Rubber gloves
Boots
Net
Pump and hose
Spray nozzle and garden hose
Sponge or squeegee to clean the pond bottom
Water conditioners that should be used during cleaning are as follows:
Chlorine/Chloromine Remover, Stress Coat (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals)
Aqua Safe (Tetra)
Pond Start (Jungle Pond)
All these are equally good for conditioning new water. A fungus control product is recommended for prevention purposes. The following are all products which work well and should be used according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
Fungus Eliminator (Jungle Pond)
Protect-Ease (Mydor)
Stress Coat (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals)
Step 1: Set up the tank or tub to hold the plants and fish while cleaning the pond.
Step 2: Pump the surface water of the pond into the holding tank, thus keeping the fish in the same water during cleaning.
Step 3: As the water level drops, quickly remove the plant materials. Pots are buoyant while in the water and can be moved and lifted at the closest edge of the pond to the holding tank. SAVE THE BACK!
Step 4: As the water level drops to the bottom take the garden hose and start spraying the bottom. This will liquefy the silt on the bottom.
Step 5: At this time take the net and retrieve the fish and transfer them to the holding tank.
Step 6: After the fish are removed, net out as much organic debris as possible.
Step 7: As you pump out the sludge, spray it on your garden. Fish emulsion is one of the best organic fertilizers. It can be used on shrubs, perennials, herbs, flowers and vegetables. Throughout the course of the year you can also dip out buckets of pond water to water your garden flowers and other plants.
Step 8: When the pond is drained, take your sponge or squeegee and wipe down the bottom of the pond. Do not scrape the sides of the pond. The algae on the sides is friendly algae which the fish and snails feed on. DO NOT USE CLEANERS OF ANY KIND!
Step 9: Clean your filter using a bucket of pond water from the holding tank. Don't use the hose water because it may contain chemicals which will kill the algae eating bacteria in the filtration media.
Step 10: It's time to start refilling the pond. Use the garden hose and SPRAY the water into the pond. This will allow the chlorine, which is in most municipal water and is a gas, to dissipate when the water is atomized. Always spray the water in when adding to or filling the pond. It also helps introduce oxygen into the water.
Step 11: At this time you should add the water conditioners according to the manufacturer’s directions. It is very important to know your pond's gallon age.
Step 12: If you have a pumping system in your pond, turn it on as soon as the pond is full enough to cover and fill the filtration system. This will start the circulation of water, introducing oxygen and warming the water by running it over the rockery of the falls if your pond has a waterfall or cascade. It will also mix the conditioners into the water. Finish topping off the pond with the small amount of water in the holding tank. CAUTION! If there had been a disease or fungus problem previously, DO NOT use this water.
Step 13: Bag the fish in some of the holding tank water and float them in the new water, same as when they were purchased, for approximately 20 minutes to acclimate them to their new environment. After floating, release them slowly into the water. Put the plants back in slowly sinking them into the water.
Step 14: Now you can stretch a pond netting over the cleaned pond to help prevent leaves from falling into the pond.
Now the fish have a happy, healthy environment for the coming cold season!!
Spring cleaning should not be completed until the water temperature rises above 50 to 55 degrees. If the fall cleaning was thorough, then there should not be much organic debris on the pond bottom. At this time, if the water is murky or real green, a partial water change is recommended. Drain 1/3 or 1/2 the water volume, no more than that. Spray the water in as was done for the fall cleaning. And add the proper amounts of pond water conditioners. Back flush the filter system or remove the media and clean it using the pond water as was done in the fall cleaning. Keep the pumps circulating the water. This is all that is recommended for spring cleaning.
At this time you can start feeding the fish. The recommended amount will be as gradually as possible. Start with Wheat Germ for early spring and then slowly changing to the regular food as the water temperature rises. Doing this should get your fish into good health for the coming season.
HAPPY WATER GARDENING!!
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